What are exfoliants?
Exfoliation is one of the most important procedures in aesthetic medicine and is used to treat blemishes, scars, moderate to severe acne, and signs of diffuse photo-aging. Different acids, at different concentrations and pH, are used for this purpose and under the strict observation of a physician.
The action of the acid on the skin is carried out by dissolving the cement that binds the superficial corneocytes, namely the cells present in the upper layer of the epidermis. Its in-depth action can also reach the dermis where it is necessary to intervene on deep scars. By dissolving these bonds, the cells flake off in the following days leaving space for new layers. They must be protected from UV light.
In cosmeceutics, exfoliants have different purposes – to modulate the function of the sebaceous follicle, to accelerate the synthesis and rise to the surface of new epidermal cells, and to make the skin more permeable to the descent of anti-aging actives, so that they reach the vital areas of the skin in its deeper layers: melanocytes, fibroblasts, intercellular fluid, mitochondria, etc.
What is our approach to exfoliants?
We choose the acids by studying their different action and penetration capacity and sometimes by combining several acids in synergy.
We keep in mind that the effectiveness of an acid-based product is not only related to the concentration of these substances, but also to the pH of the base in which they are inserted. A high percentage of an acid added to a neutral vehicle will have a much more superficial action. On the other hand, a low percentage on a vehicle with a very acidic pH becomes much more active. When we speak of buffered acid we refer precisely to this technical manoeuvre which raises the pH of an acid by modifying that of its base.
So, we urge you not to chase after higher percentages as synonymous with greater effectiveness. In fact, in many cases the strategy to achieve greater effectiveness is the opposite.
How we formulate exfoliants
We use several alpha hydroxy acids, either in pure formulas or combined with other moisturizing or antioxidant ingredients, with safety and tolerability profiles that make them suitable for home use.
The association between glycolic acid, pyruvic acid and lactobionic acid in balanced percentages has given rise to our exclusive raw material present in the Alfacall line, which has been validated by in vitro tests with significant demonstrations of effectiveness.
A decade of experience in mandelic acid formulations is the basis of two exfoliating products – Prof Peel and Soft Peel – with different degrees of penetration and application: acne and photo-aging.
